Paju Camp

Greetings everyone.
Today was another 7hr 90degree scorcher, but we arrived in Paju Camp by early afternoon. Mercifully some clouds have moved in making hanging out in tents bearable.
Lapka and I were looking at pics in his book on k2 about expeditions here in the ’70’s, Kat took a “bucket shower” which consisted of hiding in a shower stall out of the wind with a bucket of water, and Tshering and I have been playing with satellite phone equipment as usual!
We managed to pick up the bbc on shortwave today, so caught up with a bit of world cup action!
It’s nice to hear how the rest of the world is doing! Tomorrow will be a rest day so our Balti porters have organized some danciing for tonight! Ian promises to do the funky chicken and I will be there camera in hand to record all!
Stay tuned for what I am sure will be great pics!

Paju Camp

Porter tea time

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jhola camp

our apologies gang. we are fine in camp after a 7hr walk, but cant get a good signal on the bgan to send a dispatch and the pda wont upload photos!
aaah the beauty of tech time in the hills! more tomorrow when we have it sorted. for now, the team is all fine and happy to be moving on foot!

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Askole

What a day! For our final jeep ride to the “trailhead”, the road did not dissapoint!
Intense 4wheel drive roads, followed by massive breakdowns of machines, finally saw us reach Askole by mid afternoon. There were a few hair raising moments, especially when we saw a suspension bridge that was on the road we were travelling twisted and broken from a recent flood!
All is well now and we are all settled in here in Askole finalizing the sorting of our loads, and hiring our porters for the walk to basecamp!
It will be nice to finally be on foot travel again!

K2 STS 2010 Team

destroyed bridge

anyone have the wrench?

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Skardu

After an intense 30hr bus ride, over rugged roads, and driving by the mouth of the Swat Valley, which has been a Taliban stronghold till recently, we made it at about 2am to the serene and pristine Skardu!
This village is really where the Karakoram HImalayas begin, and our adventure continues! We arent fully done with autos yet, as we are still loading into a jeep tomorrow for our final leg under auto power to Askole. From there we will be on foot for another 5 days or so to Broad Peak basecamp, which is about 1hr walking away from K2 basecamp.
We will be acclimating on Broad, to prepare for K2, so it will be an amazing experience to climb on 2 8000m peaks this season! Lets hope we get to summit at least one of them!
Katrina, Lakpa and Tshering are all doing well, and we were busy today re packing loads, and enjoying the scenery while strategizing over our maps about our chosen route on K2.
We have met up with other Broad Peak climbers for this leg of our journey, as other K2 folks are a day ahead of us.
Stay tuned as it can only get more interesting from here!

skardu valley

repacking

maps and planning

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Departing Islamabad

This has been an amazing couple of days! We have endeavored to see the sights and sounds of this wonderful city, taking in all the bazaar’s and markets in and around the city. Everything from Afgani carpets to dates and nuts, we have seen and experienced it all!
Today we finally fly to Skardu to begin our journey up valley. We are hearing reports of large amounts of snow this year up around Concordia, stay tuned as we go to find out!

Every fruit on the planet

Dates and nuts from all over the region

Lakpa contemplates a Afgani rug

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Islamabad

After years in the planning and even more in the dreaming of this trip, we are all here in Pakistan safe and sound. Dinner was a buzz of chatter about past trips, and eager anticipation about our current adventure.
We shared all of our Sherpa Adventure Gear with Kat, and made plans for an early breakfast to be ready for the flight for Skardu. Alas, I just got word that we will not be flying tomorrow, but the next day due to oversold flights up valley. Here is where “Inshallah” comes into its own.
The plan now is to fly day after tomorrow, if we cant get on a flight, then it is onward to a 36hr drive up the Karakoram Highway towards Skardu, we will keep you posted as we know more!
Till then….

Lakpa and Luis

The gangs all here

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Puja and Preparation

Puja day! A buddist ceremony might seem out of place when it comes to climbing in Islamic Pakistan, but the four of us felt like it was an important ceremony regardless of where you are climbing. As the Rimpoche Lama said to us today, “you dont stop doing what you believe just because you are far from home”. How true.
So today Lakpa Tshering and I went to Bodanath to recieve our blessing. We brought prayer flags to string over basecamp once we arrive, and went to see the RImpoche. All three of us felt better for the experience!
Then a quick visit to one of our sponors headquarters, Sherpa Adventure Gear, and we are back in the shade trying to escape the mid day heat!
Katrina arrived in Islamabad at about 2.30am today, so she is the 1st of our team on the ground. The three of us will fly tomorrow afternoon, Inshallah. ( You will see this a lot on this trip, loosely translated it means “if God wills it”).
Stay tuned!

Bodanath

Lakpa and Tshering

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STS K2 Expedition 2010

Dispatches will start soon!

The Cesen Route (SSE Spur) on K2 This season our first route preference, if the conditions are good, will once again be via the Cesen Route – the lesser climbed SSE spur first claimed by Alpinist Tomo Cesen. / The 4000 meter long Cesen route (also dubbed the ‘Basque route’ or ‘Spanish Route’), follows a spur, just on the right side of the South face, which leads to the shoulder at 7800m, where it joins the Abruzzi Spur route, above camp 3. It has been said that the route is technically slightly more demanding than the Abruzzi, but safer if the conditions are good. If conditions don’t favor the Cesen on our arrival, the expedition will have the flexibility to alter routes. / Regardless of the route we will be on, the style of our climb will require that all four of us take an active part in preparing the route above C2 and carrying a share of the loads. Based on the experiences of others and suggestions, our team will be acclimatizing on another 8000m peak across the valley, Broad Peak, up to a minimum elevation of Camp3 before moving onto K2. /

K2 upper section

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Outward Bound / World Team Sports Soldiers to the Summit Himalayan Expedition

Keep your eye out this fall for a really cool project called Soldiers to the Summit. We’re teaming up with a group to injured American soldiers for a climbing expedition to the Himalayas. I’m teaming up with lots of my climbing buddies from the National Federation of the Blind 2001 Everest Expedition for this project. We’re raising funds right now to make this a reality, so if you’re interested in supporting this project, give me a shout. Follow our progress here.

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